Pretty impressive, I gotta say, and these are benefits that are easily understood by the average consumer, almost presented in the language of a new car. Just take a look at the stat sheet: 5 days of power reserve, highly anti-magnetic, 10 year service intervals, and a 10 year warranty to top it off. The caliber 400 represents Oris’ first modern in-house automatic movement, and they are looking to take this one mainstream. The caliber 400 that Oris is using in this Aquis was introduced late last year as a standalone announcement, and it certainly caught our attention in the process. Taken on their own, you’re left with two, rather unflattering, in my opinion, 6mm wide lugs with an awkward 11mm span between them. The center link is therefore acting as the end link here. Are these even lugs? An argument could be made that the bracelet is simply built directly into the case there is no solid end link between a traditional set of lugs, rather the “lugs” are just two of the wide links of the bracelet. The lugs are where things really get interesting with the Aquis, however. The bottom edge of the case is flared out to meet the wrist, like a pair of bell bottoms, with the bezel assembly spilling out over the tucked in top edge of the case wall. Measured from the bottom of the case, this Aquis is a hair under 41mm (measured from 10 to 4). However, in my humble opinion, the shape of the case as it transitions to the form of the lug can lend a great deal of personality to the watch as a whole, if done properly. None of this to degenerate an inelegant case, many qualifying examples of which you’d find in my own watch box. The result is something that borders foreign looking in the context of the current dive watch zeitgeist. The fact that there is not what I’d call an elegant case makes the dial feel nearly isolated, with just the bezel left to frame it in a seamless arc of glass. This dial, plopped into a more formal case, would look the part with ease. The fume dial and decidedly un-chunky hands offer a grace not often seen alongside watches with 300 meter depth ratings. But even the Pelagos is more instantly recognizable as a tool/diver, where the Aquis has a simplicity and effortlessness to it that keeps you guessing, or wondering even. The Aquis is more akin to something like the Pelagos, marching to the beat of its own drum, so to speak. Oris has their Diver Sixty-Five line that covers that territory relatively well, I’d say. The Aquis is a contemporary diver, and doesn’t adhere to many of the design trends of the genre. So if you don’t like the dial and bezel presentation, you’re out of luck here. It’s a clean look that’s accentuated by the lack of any real case shape to speak of, placing all emphasis on the dial. Wide bar hour markers and broadsword hands lend a sleek and legible dial aesthetic while a ceramic bezel matches the slope of the crystal. Each is built on the original formula which is defined by the tapered cylinder case and integrated steel bracelet or rubber strap. The new Aquis joins an already sizable collection that features a healthy range of LEs, case sizes and materials, and complications ( even a depth gauge). It might look the same, but this watch represents a new chapter for Oris’ most popular watch. Oris released an Aquis Date earlier this year, mercifully in their 41.5mm case, and within it have placed their new in-house automatic movement, the caliber 400 ( which we introduced here). I believe there are a few reasons for this, which I’ll get into, but first, let’s deal with the facts. The Oris Aquis is, by every measure, a well executed, simple dive watch, yet it reads very differently from other classically styled divers like those referenced above. A good diver, when done right, is also a great watch thanks to high legibility, a practical feature set, and a flexible design language that can span wardrobe styles with ease. The appeal of a simple, well done dive watch runs deep, and I suspect that’s why we see new contenders in this genre with regularity. Chunky bezels, big hour markers, fat hands, and funky cases all appear heavily within my own watch box, from Seikos old and new to Rolex’s archetypal Submariner. When it comes to dive watches, I guess you could say I have a type.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |